Wednesday, July 01, 2009

The end of JET

It’s been a while since I’ve blogged anything, but with good reason. Things were a bit hectic as my year on the JET program came to a close. I am now living in Yokohama and attending the Inter-University Center for Japanese Language Studies, an intensive program in intermediate and advanced Japanese language, where I will spend the next year. One chapter has ended, and the next has begun. I’m pretty excited to be back in an academic pursuit, and I am thrilled to have the opportunity to devote a year to language study at such a well-respected institution. Living in Yokohama is pretty awesome as well; it’s Japan’s second largest city, and it is located smack next to Tokyo.After our Golden Week trip to Beijing Joe and I had many social engagements and tasks to complete to prepare for moving. We enjoyed dinners in Kyoto with friends, art exhibitions in Nara and Kyoto, and days hanging out with the friends we made in Hyogo. It was nice to make the rounds in Kansai one last time before moving, and to see everyone in the area. The first photo was taken in the backyard of our Ono apartment, having dinner with friends, the second photo is at Harborland in Kobe.
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We also tried to see some of the sights in Ono that we had always intended to see, such as the 5th century Ono Kofun, (tomb, first photo) and the Ryuno Shrine (second photo).


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Also, I never posted photos of our apartment in Ono, or wrote much about my JET experience, and now seems like the appropriate time to do so. In all honesty, our apartment was one of the things about JET that I liked the least. While our rent was dirt cheap and we had a lovely view of the surrounding mountains, our apartment was a complete dump and had been neglected for many years. When we moved in it was disgusting; our predecessor wasn’t a very clean person, and left some things that I consider unspeakable (think expired food, shampoo, bugs and fungus) along with a ridiculous amount of her own personal trash (think magazines, postcards on the walls, and stained textiles). We spent weeks cleaning, throwing out trash and attempting to make the place as livable as possible. We even painted the kitchen and bathroom, for which the school (our landlord) wouldn’t reimburse the cost of materials. I don’t think the walls had been painted in ten years, and our predecessor had a particular love of blue poster putty, which stained the walls. After we were through with it the apartment was no longer a hygienic hazard, but I never came to like it. It was hot in the summer, as the one window air conditioner was upstairs in the living room, and cold in the winter, as there was no central heat, only space heaters. The windows had gaps surrounding them and were thirty year old single pane windows. On windy nights the sliding doors would rattle relentlessly from the drafts in the windows. In January I can remember sleeping under electric blankets with three layers of clothes. Thankfully, Japan is not a cold place, and the temperature rarely reached below freezing, but there were a few days that we had frozen pipes and frozen toothpaste in the mornings, and a few times that we cooked dinner when we could see our breath in the kitchen. Perhaps the biggest disappointment about this situation was that everyone at the numerous JET orientations we attended told us that we would be treated really well upon arrival and that most JETs have a great living situation. This is definitely not true for Hyogo Prefectural JETs, from whom we have heard numerous stories similar to our own. The fact that our landlord couldn’t even take down the posters and throw out the old food and shampoo was pretty insulting. Nonetheless, we endured and made the best of our situation and even had some good times in the apartment. The apartment was about a 15 minute bike ride from the grocery store, a 10 minute walk to the train station, and within walking distance of a few restaurants. Ono is a pretty small town, and most of it is spread out across the countryside, but all the necessary services were relatively close by. In the photo below, Joe is putting air in our bike tires in front of the Ono apartment, ours was the unit on the end.

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What other reflections do I have after a year of JET? The work situation was really easy, and we had a good deal of down time. Most days I only taught two or three classes, but had to sit at my desk for a full eight hour work day, giving me lots of free time, which I mostly spent studying Japanese, reading books, and reading the newspaper online. We also had many days when we sat at school during holiday breaks with no work to do, I probably had three months of complete downtime at work over the course of the year.
I had two schools, Miki High School and Ono Technical High School. The former was my base school, where I spent three days a week. The academic level was decent, and there was a special English language track which was a lot of fun to teach, as the kids were really interested in learning English. In the English track we were able to do things like English debate and model UN conferences, and the students were college bound and generally motivated to learn. Ono Tech was quite different. The students were mostly boys who majored in a variety of trades such as electronics, metals, or machine shop. The girls all majored in home economics. As these students were not college bound, the academic level was quite low and there was zero motivation to study English, which made my job challenging at times. There were also a lot of behavior issues and undiagnosed cases of ADD, as well as some kids who I suspected had domestic problems. The good thing about Ono Tech though was the outspoken nature of the students and that it was only a five minute walk from home. I was also really pleased to see that the students really engaged with their major, and took a lot of pride in their particular specialty. They may not have excelled in English, but they were quite talented at wiring electricity and making robots, things that I have no idea how to do. In many ways I think that this system of vocational education is better than the U.S. high school system, because it gives kids who are not college bound a reason to attend high school, and also allows academically oriented kids to be surrounded by like-minded students. Of course there are also lots of issues with determining someone's future by testing them when they are in junior high, and I think the Japanese system could benefit from some flexibility as well. Below is Miki High School from the front gate of the school property.


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Overall, JET was a great experience. We were able to travel extensively, and at the same time save money. We never took work home with us, which was a treat after years of me being in grad school and working multiple jobs, and Joe working a demanding salaried engineering job. Interestingly though, at the end of our year, we are both ready to go back to being busy. I often referred to our experience on JET as “Japan Fantasy Camp,” as I felt that it was so laid back and easy that it was a surreal experience. As our year break comes to a close I am writing this from our lovely (and clean!) urban apartment in Yokohama, four minutes from the subway and a block away from a grocery store. While I am happy to have moved on, I will definitely cherish the memories of carefree evenings reading or watching PBS online, and of Joe and I being able to spend lots of time together traveling and relaxing on weekends. I enjoyed many of my students, and made some good friends along the way. As one chapter closes, another begins….

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Beijing Day 5

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We had a few hours on Wednesday morning before our afternoon flight back to Japan, so we decided to visit Chairman Mao's Mausoleum. Photography is forbidden inside the mausoleum, and the guards were quite serious about this. Joe and I had to take turns going in because we weren't even allowed to bring our camera in (no large bags are allowed either). We each had to wait in a line outisde for about 10 minutes, show identification, and pass through metal detectors before entering the courtyard infront of the mausoleum. From there we had to wait in another line for about 10 more minutes before entering the building. Upon entry everyone must take off their hat, and a policy of silence is strictly enforced. The first hall includes a large marble statue of Mao, seated on a chair with a landscape of mountains and rivers behind him. The sculpture is surrounded by hundreds of potted plants, and there is a designated place in front of the sculpture for flowers, which are sold outside of the mausoleum. Visitors then pass through a hallway and into the room with Mao himself. After his death in 1976 Mao was embalmed, but rumor has it that his doctors did a poor job and needed the Vietnamese to fix the corpse. Other rumors say that there is a wax copy that sometimes replaces the body. In any case, Mao is in a clear coffin, draped with a red flag and behind a second layer of glass, surounded by potted lilies. He doesn't look too good these days.... Visitors are not allowed to stop in the room, guards make sure that everyone keeps moving. After passing through the room with Mao visitors walk through one final room, this one containing gift shops selling every manner of Mao memoribilia, including objects that are close approximations to religious funerary goods. I thought it was interesting to note the crowd at the mausoleum- for all the throngs of foreigners throughout Beijing, Mao was mostly visited by Chinese people, and many of the visitors appeared to be migrant laborers or other economically disadvantaged people, a demographic not found at other Beijing sights. I was also surprised to see so many young people there to pay homage to the Chairman.
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With our remaining time we decided to tour the Gate of Heavenly Peace.
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It was from this spot that Mao declared the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949.
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Up on the gate...
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Military guys taking photos in front of the gate.
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Joe waits for the subway....
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Vegetables for sale back in the hutong.
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One last view of the courtyard of our hotel, so relaxing....
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We stopped for lunch at the airport. Joe got his favorite bottled water. When we lived in Lawrence he would always return from business trips to China with one of these bottles.
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Thai food!
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Beijing was a cosmopolitan and hip city, and we had a great five days there, visiting friends, seeing the sights, and enjoying fantastic food. After Joe's many trips to Hong Kong and Shenzhen, and our three week tour of Shanghai, Luoyang, Xi'an and Guilin back in 2006, it was great to finally see the capital to round out our understanding of China.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Beijing Day 4

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Tuesday was our last full day in Beijing, so we headed out to the countryside to check out the Great Wall and the Ming Tombs. Here's a surreal experience- Mutianyu, the section of the wall that we visited, is serviced by a chairlift and toboggan. Above is the chairlift taking us up to the wall and below is us on the lift.
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A section of the wall.
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The wall was quite steep, as it runs atop the ridgeline of the mountains.
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As we hiked along the wall we came to small fortifications every quarter mile or so, sometimes less. The fortifications generally had a few rooms on the first floor, and an open area on the roof, which was a good place to take a break.
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Looking out at the wall from inside one of the fortifications.
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On the wall. The Chinese term for the Great Wall is long castle or long fortress, and while walking along the wall we came to understand how that is a better description than the English term Great Wall.
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Looking to the north, the Mongolians would have had to cross this mountain range and then overtake the wall. Eesh. You can see a distant section of the wall in the middle of the photo. As we hiked I came to feel that I was repeatedly viewing the same thing, yet I also had a contradictory feeling that I hadn't seen enough of the wall to grasp it. We probably hiked about 4 miles, so 2 miles of wall (out and back), about .04% of the total 5,000 miles of wall.
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Walking back. The first wall was constructed during the Qin Dynasty, about 221 B.C.E., but the wall as it exists today dates from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 C.E.).
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Joe at one of the fortifications.
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After walking out in the hot sun came the fun part, the toboggan ride down to the bottom! If taking a chairlift up was a little weird, tobogganing down was even stranger....
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We stopped for lunch at a roadside cafe.... and ate more of the fantastic chili garlic green beans that we had come to love.
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Next stop- Ming Tombs. We visited the Underground Palace of Dingling, tomb of the 13th Ming Emperor and his two Empresses dating from the 1580s. The tomb complex included a museum to house the excavated objects.
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The structure in front of the underground tomb.
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After descending about 5 or 6 floors underground we came to the tomb itself.
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The underground stone thrones and gateways.
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Emerging from the tomb, which was sealed after the Emperors burial, only to be excavated in the 20th century. Of the 13 Ming Tombs, this is the only one that has been excavated.
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Our next destination was the Sacred Way of the Ming Tombs. This willow lined road was the ceremonial entry to the Ming Tombs, which are spread over a 40 km square area, nestled into the surrounding mountains. The Sacred Way was probably a half mile long; our driver dropped us off at the north end and we met him at the south end, which is the reverse of the proper order. Along the way are huge stone sculptures, so of course the appropriate reaction was to take amusing photos of ourselves with said sculptures.
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No, I'm not trying to tip it over, I'm trying to get the sword out.
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Looking toward the Stele Pavillion at the south end of the road.
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Inside the Stele Pavillion is a huge 50 ton tortise with a stele resting on its back.
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Back in Beijing, some interesting architecture near the Olympic Grounds. We drove past the Birds Nest and the Bubble-like swimming stadium, but my photos of those are a little blurry.
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... and back at Cote Cour, our hotel, the front entrance.
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The hotel was a small 14 room rennovated hutong.
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The hotel lounge, where we had a fantastic breakfast each morning including yogurt and granola, fresh juice, dumplings, Chinese-style crepes, toast and eggs.
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Joe on the rooftop lounge. The hotel was a quiet retreat from the city, and a nice way to get to know one of the hutongs.
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Looking down at the courtyard from the rooftop lounge.
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We saved dinner at Pure Lotus for our last night, and were not dissapointed, the vegetarian meal was probably one of the top five of my life. The decor was ethereal- our table cloth was cloud-like and we ate from large, pearly shells while sitting in oversized high-backed chairs. Joe with course one, Barbeque "Chicken" Wings.
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Course two, Spicy Sichuan "Chicken".
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Greens with Goji Berries. We also had a Peking "Duck" Soup during this course that had a slight honey flavor to the savory broth, and included two types of wheat gluten veggie meat to immitate the two textures of dark and white meat.
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Savory Veggie Patties and Dumplings. All of the dishes had ostentatious names like Heavenly Love, but everything was so exquisite that I didn't care.
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Dessert- watermelon served in a hollow log with dry ice. We also had a slice of chocolate cake. Overall, Pure Lotus had fabulous service to accompany their relaxing decor and otherworldly food- a highly reccomended experience for any foodie.
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